Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli collection has the fashion world buzzing about the return of Couture. Roseberry, who was appointed creative director in 20219, sent a black-and-white galactic-inspired lineup down the spring 2022 runway. Dresses were cut in sharp silhouettes and finished with gilded headpieces; a bustier made of twisted metal and paired with an expertly cut liquid white skirt was a subtle standout; while drama by way of oversize jewels, embellishments, hoods, and collars dominated the looks.
It’s more is more, albeit with fine-tuned artistry, even restraint, when it comes to color palette and carefully constructed proportions. It’s both forward thinking and nostalgic — biker-like shorts or a black sheath that looks like something Princess Diana might have worn, if not covered in oversize gold embellishments or cut to show so much skin. That’s the beauty of it; familiar, but disarming; wearable art, if the wearer is bold enough. Roseberry taps into Schiaparelli’s surrealist legacy while giving us a new vision — clothes begging to be worn for Lady Gaga‘s next cover or on the red carpet at Cannes.